Sunday, November 16, 2008

Loving Life in Sweden!

Well after four months (I have no idea where that time went!) settling in, I'm long overdue for an update. Read on to find out about life in Stockholm; the city, the job and the good times...





The City

Rewind to the start of July and I was probably lying outside in a park somewhere in Stockholm soaking up the sun and the heatwave that came along with it. Still unemployed at that stage, there was plenty of time to enjoy the long nights (sunset around 10 or 11pm) and the cloudless days. Slight change now with the onset of autumn and the imminent arrival of winter. To give you an idea of what these seasons are like up here around the 60th parallel, autumn is essentially an NZ winter. And winter... well there is a certain date that everyone is required to have winter tires (with metal studs) on their car by and it gets cold enough that you can drive on some of the lakes. Bring on the snow I say!




Luckily the Swedes know how to build their houses though, so the cold stays outside. My apartment is pretty old but it's still double glazed and centrally heated. I rarely need more than just a tee on, despite near freezing temperatures outside. And best of all, I don't pay for heating, water heating or clothes washing/drying. Trust the super-efficient Swedes to incorporate this all into a central location in each apartment building. At just 38sqm (almost all Swedes know the exact size of their apartment for some reason), my apartment certainly isn't big, well not to non-Swedes anyway. But it's plenty big enough for me. As it turns out, I actually got really lucky with my apartment, completely unbeknown to me. Before coming to Stockholm, a friend of a friend offered me the apartment and after a quick search on Google Maps, I decided the location was sort of alright and the price was kind of ok. Since arriving I've probably had over 90% of the locals I've met ask how the hell I managed to get an apartment where I am and how come it's so cheap! Apparently there's up to a five year waiting list in this area! The location is perfect for me, it's close to town, parks and the water. I live on one of the few hills (really just a bump in the otherwise flat landscape) in Stockholm. My window overlooks some sports fields and there's a path leading straight down to one of the numerous waterways that wind through Stockholm and the surrounding archipelago. There are running and walking tracks all round here and all are very scenic for the middle of a capital city.
My apartment is in the upper right.





This is my bedroom/lounge/living room/bike storage area. Looks different now though as I have a proper bed and a tv (both freebies!). I also have a couch made out of mattresses. Gold.
Stockholm itself is a fantastic city I reckon. It has all the advantages of a major city but is still small enough to include plenty of nature and a relaxed atmosphere. People here seem very happy wherever you go and it's rare to hear people complaining, arguing or yelling. There are bike paths almost everywhere and the traffic is very considerate to both cyclists and pedestrians. Even bus drivers! When a bus pulled forward too far the other day, forcing me to (shock horror) ride in the pedestrian lane instead of the bike lane, he hand signaled a sorry and looked all apologetic. In most other countries, bus drivers also frequently use hand signals, but normally more along the lines of a single finger extension! And to top it all off, it must be one of the safest major cities in the world, there just doesn't seem to be any crime.
I can't help but wonder if all this happiness and friendliness is due to the fact that they have so much holiday time. One thing I can tell you though is don't try and do anything business related during June, July or August... like attempting to get a job for example. Unfortunately I learnt the hard way. Everyone takes at least a month off during this period and heads to their summer houses or away somewhere. I don't mean it just gets quieter either, whole businesses just shut down and cities become ghost towns!
The Job

So because of the summer shutdown I was fairly happy when I finally got a job, a month after arriving. Given that I'd had a year and a half off, I figured it would take a while to get the career back on track. The plan was to get back into engineering and then work my way into a technical sales position within two years, either here or elsewhere. Turns out I got lucky here too but I'll take it! It's probably since I'm an NZer and I done learned to talk Englandish good.

So I'm working for a Swedish medical device manufacturer called Perimed (check out http://www.perimed.se/ if you want to know more). We sell our products worldwide but the US is our biggest market. Initially I was only meant to be part-time for a couple of weeks, so I had a spot in the corner of the lab doing donkey work. Then this changed to full-time for a couple of weeks, then full-time until the end of the year and some proper engineering work. I even got moved out of the lab and given a desk in another engineer's office, woohoo! A couple of months in they asked if I'd be keen to gradually move in a sales and marketing direction over the next year or so, which of course I was. Then, as luck would have it, two weeks ago one of our main salesmen handed in his resignation. So my schedule got pushed forward and I move into his old office on Monday. My engineering career is officially over already! I'm really looking forward to getting stuck into the new job though. There's a lot to learn and they're more than happy to throw me in the deep end... but that's where I like it! My territory will mainly include parts of Europe and Asia but also several other countries here and there. At this stage they plan to train me up here and eventually send me over to the US. Sound familiar!?! I'm starting the cycle all over again!
The Good Times

I thought it would be relatively quiet once I settled in up here but that hasn't turned out to be the case at all. A couple weeks in, Travis (who was staying at the time) and I ended up playing in the world's biggest international rugby 10's tournament, right here in Stockholm. We had a blast and met plenty of cool people over the weekend. Swedes are fairly easy going folk so meeting new friends hasn't been any trouble at all. I haven't been on any big trips since being here but have had several smaller ones. One highlight was a weekend in Uppsala (uni town 70km north, with about 40,000 students) for a party. As you can probably imagine, being a uni town, the place goes off. They also have a funny tradition up there; each night at 10pm everyone opens up their windows and screams and yells for a full minute to vent the frustrations and pent up energy from sitting inside studying. It's crazy when you're not expecting it! I've also had plenty of visitors up here (about 15 so far, including Kiwis, Swedes, Frenchies and Norwegians) and several more booked in, which is always good times. There's a decent crew of Kiwis heading this way for Xmas too. So if anyone's contemplating a trip up here, feel free to hit me up for a place to stay!



Well, that pretty much sums it up. Well done if you've managed to get this far! Other than a possibly a quick Xmas post, that'll be all from me for a while. I'll be sure to update again when the adventure continues. Hej då...

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Coast to Coast!!

Pacific to Atlantic, Cali to NYC, coast to coast... we made it! And apart from a warning for speeding and a tire shredding at 75mph, it was basically incident free. And to be honest, the only reason we got pulled over is because our van looks dodgy, as do the three dirty moustache sporting lads inside. It was Texas, we were 8 minutes into the night time speed limit (it drops 5mph, 30 mins after sunset) and only 3mph over that. Come on!


Don and Trav have been fantastic companions on our journey across, each bringing their own brilliance to the party. So it's sad days indeed to see the end of Dodgey and the dodgy trio. We've managed to cram a lot into the last six weeks, yet it never felt too rushed. Read on for the final chapter or just check out the US summary at the bottom...




Finishing Up the Southwest

Before leaving Arizona we had one last stop, Pima Air and Space Museum. It's a great museum with plenty of aircraft but the highlight there is being able to go through the Aerospace Maintenance and Regeneration Group (AMARG) grounds. They have over 4,500 planes, in various states of (dis)repair, sitting out in the desert! Amazing sight.






In New Mexico we visited White Sands National Monument, which is right next to one of the major US missile test sites. It's gypsum sands are incredibly white and vary rare worldwide. And we just couldn't resist getting our fill of Americana with a visit to Roswell. That's a unique place for sure.






As we blasted our way through the middle, we stopped for a steak in Texas and to see Cadillac Ranch. I decided against the challenge of a free 72oz (2kg) steak, if you eat it in an hour. Figured it be a crap piece of meat and probably half gristle so went for some quality instead. I know, I know... the old me would've just shut up and dominated it. Maybe next time. On the way to St. Louis we stopped in to to see the Oklahoma City bombing memorial, which was very nicely done.








Chi-town!

Then it was off to Chicago where we had the biggest/best two nights of the road trip. It was a Wednesday and a Thursday, yet the place was going off! Cheers for the local hookup Chandon! In between hangovers we also managed to check out the city and head up to the 103rd floor of the 520m (including television antennae) Sears tower. Great view from up there.




Back Where I Started

The last few stops were essentially the first few stops of my American leg, just in reverse. Had one night in Columbus (with the ever hospitable Vetricks again), before checking out DC for a few more days and then ending up in NYC. I managed to get to a few new things and also revisited some old favourites. The second part of the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum (out at Dulles Airport) was a real highlight, with plenty of cool stuff. And we caught a Mets game in NYC. $5 tickets and the view wasn't even that bad!





USA Wrapup

Well it isn't a continent (despite what a few locals might think) but it sure is a massive country and I spent a fair bit of time here, so I figured a wrapup was in order...



Distance travelled (road trip only): 11,300kms
Amount spent on petrol: US$1685
Most expensive petrol: US$5.20/gal (~NZ$1.81/L)
Cheapest petrol: US$3.34/gal (~NZ$1.16/L)
Nights in van: 15
States visited: 20 (plus we could see Kansas but didn't actually cross the border!)
Best city: Chicago, IL
Worst city: Kayenta, AZ (seriously, don't go there, it's crap)
Best National Park: Bryce Canyon and Zion (too close to call)
Best value booze: shop - Canadian Club 1.75L @ US$18, bar - US$1 domestic beers
Best food: lunch at Barcelona's in Columbus (cheers Tom!)
Worst food: blandest sludge I've ever seen pass as Mexican, or food for that matter (see worst city)
Highest altitude: 3,852m (12,637ft)
Lowest altitude: -86m (-282ft)
Highest temperature: 37°C (98°F)
Lowest temperature: -32°C (-25°F)
Most crazies: LA
Most beggars: NYC
Craziest beggar: "I'm collecting money to pay for karate lessons because ninjas kidnapped my Grandmother." in LA

and finally...

Best dumb question/statement: You decide because I just can't pick a winner.
1) scene: Buying beers at an ice hockey game in Columbus, I have just handed over my NZ licence (complete with English writing on it) to verify my age.
vendor: So where are you from? (yes, that's bad enough on it's own but that's not even it!)
me: I'm from New Zealand.
vendor: You speak pretty good English.
me: (after a long pause, I'll be honest, I was in shock) Thanks.

2) scene: Again handing over licence, this time as ID to enter an Air Force base facility.
ticket agent: New Zealand's a state right?
me: (dammit, this one got me too) Ahhh, no, it's a country.


Well the US has been absolutely fantastic, from coast to coast and back. It was great catching up with so many familiar faces and meeting so many new ones. Huge thank you to everyone that helped out along the way! The country is so diverse, in every respect. It really is an ideal place to explore, with something for everyone. I've met some of the nicest people in the world and also some of the worst, seen some of the most beautiful scenery and some of the biggest dumps and had some delicious food and also some terrible stuff. And that's why I love the place.

Thursday, May 1, 2008

U.S.A. Road Trip!!

The last month or so has been jam packed with good times, alongside my travel buddies for this portion of the trip, Don and Trav. This blog probably should've been split into two or three but time has just flown by. While spending a week or two checking out L.A., we managed to get everything sorted for our road trip east. And what better way to travel across this country than in a big V8 van! Let me introduce you to Dodgey (complete with four captains chairs and a back bench that folds into a double bed) and the adventures of Team NZ...



Fast Times in Tahoe (and the other cities we've visited)

After the initial down time in L.A., most of our time has been spent outside of cities, but here's a quick rundown of the ones we have visited and what we got up to...

During our time in L.A., we visited the usual suspects, like Hollywood, Rodeo Drive and the famous beaches. It's all pretty much what you'd expect, except perhaps even more of the filthy rich and just plain filthy. In between our days in L.A., we also spent some time in Ojai (Spanish styles, so the 'j' sounds like an 'h', unlike our pronunciation when we asked a local for directions! Damn tourists.) catching up with an old mate from home. Cheers for the good times Shearer! Ojai is a nice little town away from the Big Smoke, so we kept ourselves entertained with bike rides and running in the picturesque hills.

Next up was San Francisco for a couple of days. This was quite a nice city, with it's steep streets, great restaurants and seaside vistas. Unfortunately tours to Alcatraz were booked for several days in advance so we didn't get the chance to go out there. Managed to do everything else that we wanted to though.


The last city we visited in California was Tahoe, to see a friend of a friend. We went from singlet/shorts weather, to a dusting of snow the night we were there, all in a day's drive. Nice ski village at Squaw and cool to be amongst the mountains. Dodgey especially loved it because it meant donuts in the snow.




Then it was off to Vegas baby!! We got a good deal on a nice room at the Palms, which ended up costing us about the same as a hostel. Vegas is all about the money, as I'm sure you're well aware. Everywhere you go just screams money... often at the expense of taste. Great city to spend a few nights in though, with plenty to do. We went to Mysteré by Cirque de Soleil, gambled a bit and plowed our way through our fair share of booze.




Into the Wild
Over this side of the States a lot of the best sights on offer are miles from any city. Indeed some of the best sights I've seen anywhere in the world can be found in the treasure chest that is the National Park system. So here's what we've seen so far outside the American metropolises...


In California we visited Yosemite, with it's towering Giant Sequoias, beautiful rivers and huge rock faces (we climbed as far as weather would allow up Half Dome). The barren salt flats, desert and sand dunes of Death Valley (where we stood at the lowest point in the Western Hemisphere at -85.5m) were certainly a stark contrast to the lush and differing landscapes of Yosemite.




On our way into Utah, we stopped off to see the Hoover Dam. Disappointingly, the only way to get a really good view of it is to take a tour, which we were too late for. Still, it is an impressive sight and is absolutely massive. The National Parks that Utah has to offer are the cream of the crop. To come to this part of the world and only see the Grand Canyon would be a real shame, as the likes of Zion and Bryce National Parks are the best we've come across. Unreal landscapes packed full of natural beauty. Finished off the magic of Utah with a drive through Monument Valley.


We've only touched the corner of Colorado and New Mexico at this stage. Literally the corner of New Mexico actually, at Four Corners, where New Mexico, Colorado, Utah and Arizona meet. In Colorado we visited Mesa Verde National Park, right in the southwest corner of the state. It contains several ancient Indian abandoned villages. The coolest part is that the villages are actually built into the walls of the surrounding cliffs and caves.

Arizona is also full of great parks to visit, not least the mighty Grand Canyon. Petrified Forest National Park offers a very different landscape, as it is covered with masses of petrified wood. They range in size from chips to whole trees and are incredible to experience first hand. The colours and the weight of the wood that has turned to rock is amazing. We also visited Meteor Crater, the site of the best preserved large crater. And, at 1.2km across and 170m deep, it sure is large! Last but certainly not least, we (well 2/3 of us anyway!) climbed Humphrey's Peak. The views at 3,852m (for all you Kiwis out there, you can compare with Mt. cook at 3,754m) are incredible to say the least. Unfortunately, the wind at the summit was also some of the most incredible I've ever experienced and was trying it's hardest to fling us off the mountain!



That's all for now folks, we've covered about 5,000kms already but there's plenty more to come...